Starred review from December 18, 2017
Cantu, who was the executive chef at Chicago restaurant Moto until his death in 2015, had solidified his place as one of molecular gastronomy’s innovators alongside Wylie Dufresne, Grant Achatz, and Ferran Adrià. This outstanding cookbook is testament to his creativity and imagination (his collaborators and publisher completed his revisions). Those who never had the opportunity to dine at the cutting-edge eatery, which closed in 2016, can attempt to recreate many of its iconic dishes at home, provided they have the requisite equipment, time, patience and technical know-how. Though many of the recipes sound simple (birthday cake and ice cream, Reuben lasagna, cheese crepes), their preparation is anything but. Each recipe calls for multiple steps, and many require significant investments. Showstoppers such as M.C. Escher Surf and Turf (components of which include powdered duck confit, caramelized milk, and edible paper) take days to prepare. Others, such as the visually stunning beets and yogurt featuring a delicate sphere of beet, are more doable in a home setting. Cantu’s enthusiasm shines through in his introductions to wild dishes such as lobster with freshly squeezed orange soda, donut soup, and a pork sandwich that resembles a Cuban cigar. This is a spectacular take on molecular gastronomy from a master.